Wankspitze Ferrata – Ehrwald: An incredible Via Ferrata Adventure in the Mieming Range
The Wankspitze Ferrata, above the picturesque Austrian village of Ehrwald, is one of the most popular via ferrata routes in the Mieming Range, part of the greater Northern Limestone Alps. Known for its accessibility, scenic beauty, and tough climbing, this ferrata is an ideal alpine experience for climbers with a bit of experience and a love for big mountain views. Whether you’re an intermediate climber looking for your next challenge or an ambitious beginner ready to graduate from easier routes, the Wankspitze Ferrata offers the perfect combination of adventure, excitement, and alpine serenity.
Overview: Where Tirol’s Majesty Meets Climber’s Delight
The Wankspitze, standing at 2,209 meters, is a distinct limestone summit offering incredible panoramic views of the Zugspitze massif, the Leutasch Valley, and the nearby peaks of Tyrol. The via ferrata route to its summit takes you through steep rock faces, airy traverses, and thrilling ridge climbs—all safely aided by iron cables, pegs, and ladders. While it’s not as hard as the region’s tougher routes like the Tajakante or the Coburger Klettersteig, it still requires surefootedness, a good head for heights, and a good level of fitness.
The Wankspitze Ferrata is well-loved for being doable in half a day, its well-maintained infrastructure, and its stunning exposure without being too technically demanding. It’s a popular choice for via ferrata enthusiasts in both Austria and nearby Germany.
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Access and Starting Point
Most climbers begin their journey in Ehrwald, a charming alpine town in the Tirol region of Austria. From here, you can reach the Ameisenhütte (1,220 m), a small car park and trailhead that provides access to the Wankspitze and nearby climbing areas. Another common access point is from Obsteig, a village on the other side of the Mieming Range, which also offers hiking routes toward the Wankspitze summit but is less direct for ferrata-goers.
The ascent begins with a scenic hike through alpine pastures and dwarf pine forests before reaching the Axeck plateau. From here, climbers make their way to the start of the via ferrata, located near a saddle known as Gacher Blick.
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The Climb: Wankspitze Ferrata Route Description
- Difficulty: C (intermediate)
- Duration: 1.5 to 2 hours on the ferrata, 3.5 to 5 hours total round trip
- Elevation Gain: Approx. 900 meters from trailhead to summit
The ferrata route to the Wankspitze summit is well-equipped and follows a logical line up the mountain’s southeast face. It can be broken down into three distinct segments:
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1. Initial Climb (Grade B-C)
The first section eases climbers into the experience with moderate vertical climbing on solid limestone. Iron rungs and natural handholds help with upward progress, and the exposure begins to reveal itself gradually. The views toward the Gaistal and Zugspitze open up as you gain height.
2. Mid-Section Ridge (Grade C)
This part is the heart of the route. Here you traverse along a narrow ridge that offers both breathtaking scenery and increased exposure. Climbers need to carefully balance along narrow ledges with steep drop-offs on either side. The cable is continuous, and the holds are reliable, but concentration is essential. A few short vertical passages are encountered, requiring both arm strength and careful foot placement.
3. Final Push to the Summit (Grade B-C)
As you near the summit, the ferrata becomes slightly less demanding. You ascend a rocky slab aided by iron pegs, with the summit cross already visible above. The final meters are a satisfying scramble up grippy rock before topping out at the Wankspitze’s summit.
The Summit Experience
Reaching the 2,209-meter summit is an unforgettable moment. The summit cross stands proudly atop the peak, with panoramic views stretching in every direction. To the north, the Leutasch Plateau rolls out below. To the south, the massive Zugspitze dominates the skyline. The karst landscape of the Mieming Range stretches out with dramatic ridgelines and sheer drops.
This is the perfect place to pause, catch your breath, and enjoy a snack before beginning the descent. On clear days, you can spot peaks across the Tiroler Alps and into Bavaria.
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Descent Options
There are two main options for descending from the summit:
1. Hike Down the Normal Route
Most climbers descend via the normal hiking trail to the Marienbergjoch saddle and onward back to the trailhead. The path is steep and gravelly in places, so trekking poles can be useful. Expect the descent to take around 1.5 to 2 hours.
2. Reverse the Ferrata (Not Recommended)
While technically possible to downclimb the ferrata, this is not recommended unless necessary. Downclimbing via ferrata routes is more dangerous due to reduced visibility and footing.
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Essential Gear and Preparation
While not a technically extreme ferrata, the Wankspitze route requires proper equipment and preparation:
Equipment Checklist
- Via Ferrata Set: Harness, helmet, and Y-lanyard with energy absorber
- Sturdy Hiking Boots: Preferably with good grip on limestone terrain
- Gloves: To protect hands on the iron cables
- Weather Protection: Windproof and waterproof jacket, depending on conditions
- Daypack: Snacks, water (at least 1.5–2 liters), first-aid kit, map or GPS
Fitness and Experience
This is an intermediate-level route. Beginners with strong hiking backgrounds can complete it, but they should ideally have done an easier via ferrata first. A head for heights is essential, as exposure is present for much of the route.
Best Time to Climb
The ideal climbing season is from June to early October, when snow is gone and the weather is most stable. Early mornings are the best time to begin the climb to avoid afternoon thunderstorms, which can be frequent in alpine regions during summer.
Always check weather conditions before your trip. The Wankspitze is exposed, and climbing during rain or lightning storms can be extremely hazardous.
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Nearby Attractions and Alternative Routes
Climbers looking to extend their alpine adventures can explore other nearby via ferrata routes, such as:
- Tajakante Ferrata: A more challenging and exposed route above the Drachensee near the Coburger Hut.
- Seeben Klettersteig: A scenic ferrata climbing along waterfalls toward the Seebensee lake.
- Coburger Hut: A great overnight option for multi-day ferrata excursions in the region.
The town of Ehrwald also makes a wonderful base for hikers, mountain bikers, and climbers. It offers a range of accommodations, mountain restaurants, and shops for gear and supplies.
Why Climb the Wankspitze Ferrata?
The Wankspitze Ferrata combines everything that makes alpine climbing rewarding: thrilling terrain, achievable difficulty, panoramic summit views, and a sense of accomplishment without the need for extreme endurance or technical skills. It’s a classic route in the Tirol region—tough enough to get the adrenaline pumping, but not so difficult as to be exclusive to seasoned veterans.
Perfect as a half-day outing or part of a longer alpine adventure, the Wankspitze Ferrata should be high on any via ferrata enthusiast’s list when exploring the Austrian Alps near Ehrwald. Whether you’re sharpening your alpine skills or simply soaking up the beauty of the Mieming Range, this ridge-top route delivers an unforgettable experience in the heart of Tyrol.
